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Creating Great Aviation Photographs

From Pacific Flyer Magazine,
July 2006 Edition


As aviation enthusiasts we have access to an area that is teeming with photographic possibilities. That area is the airside of airports if you are a pilot, and other surrounding areas if you are not, perhaps airside if you know a few pilots! There is a trick to getting the best lighting and angles, and knowing how to use what equipment you have to get the best possible shot, whether you want a print for your wall, a record shot of your aircraft, or for attaching to articles in magazines like Pacific Flyer.

If it flies, I like to photograph it, be it powered aircraft, gliders or hot air balloons.

Modern technology takes a lot of the technical guesswork out of creating properly exposed and focussed images, although it helps if you have a modern film or digital SLR (single lens reflex). High-end consumer digital cameras (often called prosumer) like the Canon Powershot or Fuji S9500 also work well, the telephoto capabilities they have can be useful in some circumstances. Small compact digitals are not suitable for anything other than static shots on the ground, but they are capable of dynamic images if used correctly.

Finding a location
Security concerns these days tend to restrict some areas, but there are still plenty of opportunities. I mainly hang around Sydney Kingsford Smith Airport, which has plenty of good spots still available for both spotting and photography. Regional airports can offer possibilities; you will sometimes find me around Moruya on the south coast of NSW as well. Many years ago I was on an outback trip around White Cliffs in NSW, I just happened to turn around and see a spectacular sunset forming, so I walked about 2 km to the airstrip to see what I could get, and one of the resultant images is reproduced here. The camera was set on fully automatic mode for this. If you want to photograph military aircraft near a military base, be aware it is an offence under the Defence Act to photograph military installations, but you can photograph military aircraft on approach or take-off as long as you do not include any part of the base in your image.

Do your homework
The best way to find vantage points around airports is to get in touch with a spotters group, and do a bit of homework. For instance, www.vpmag.com/yssy is a good one for Sydney. Some of the better spots take a bit of walking, and there are restrictions on where you can park you car. The Sydney Airport website lists daily schedules of international and domestic arrivals and departures, so if you are after a specific airline it is easy to see their schedules in the one place.

Airports that do not have that information readily available, such as a regional airport, necessitate taking a drive around the perimeter, looking for little access roads that might get you to a good spot, always of course obeying relevant signs. At Sydney, if you are in the wrong spot, you will quickly be pounced upon by the airport security. I wanted to get some images of the regular south coast Rex service at Moruya, so I drove around looking for good spots, ending up on a sandy access road at the northern end of the airport, almost bogging my two wheel drive car and finding it very difficult to turn around. A bit of reconnaissance indicated that the flights from Sydney and Merimbula mostly made a straight in approach or take-off in the direction they were heading, so the flights from Sydney landed into the south, and when continuing on to Merimbula they took off into the south. This knowledge allowed me to get into the best position. Checking flight schedules allowed me to know when to be there!

Equipment
I am assuming that readers will know the basics of photography, imparting detailed photographic knowledge is beyond the scope of this article and outside the theme of this magazine.

As mentioned before, most modern cameras will allow you to create good images. A problem with the small digitals, however, is the delay between pressing the shutter and the photo being taken, this can cause you to miss an otherwise good shot as the subject, a fast moving aircraft, will be out of the frame when the camera fires. This delay can, with practice, be anticipated, and, on most cameras, if you hold the shutter button halfway to focus, compose and set exposure, this will reduce the delay. The small digitals often do not have enough telephoto range to get shots of smaller aircraft, but larger ones present no real problems if you can get close enough.

Ideally, a 35mm, (yes, I still shoot film) camera or its modern digital equivalent by one of the major manufacturers like Canon or Nikon will do the job well. The camera should be capable of high-speed operation, with a shutter speed of at least 1/2000 second, because, in many situations, if you are photographing an aircraft in flight, it is moving reasonably fast and you need to freeze action. Propeller aircraft and helicopters are a little different, and require slightly different techniques, because for a dynamic image that indicates motion you really need to show the props as a blur, or even a full circle, and you need to use a slower shutter speed to achieve this. In bright sunlight, this means a small aperture, even with low ISO settings. This can be advantageous, as it gives greater depth of field for your main subject, but there is a trade off in image sharpness due to an effect called diffraction.

Your camera should have a good metering system; once again most modern cameras have this. Getting good lighting can be difficult, as often you will be shooting into the sun, creating a backlighting situation that can result in the aircraft being too dark, even with modern metering, so your camera needs to be able to either adjust itself for this or have manual override. Your flash will have nowhere near enough power to overcome this, unless you are really close, so it is nearly always better to have the light coming from behind you, to illuminate the whole aircraft. Light overcast days can also be very good for getting great lighting.

Continuous shooting modes can be very helpful, especially with digital, as you can take a number of images in quick succession without having to worry about film costs, and if you press the button as soon as the aircraft moves into frame, you have a good chance of getting an image that is well framed. You can then easily delete the ones you don't want.

Filters can be useful, the most common one I use is a polariser to enhance blue skies and reduce reflections, although this does cut down on exposure considerably. With modern digital technology, other filters are not really necessary, as all those effects can be created in the computer. Almost all commercial printing these days is done digitally, so it is easy to modify an image by giving it a sunset look, etc.

Lenses
A moderate telephoto of up to 300mm is needed for most images created around airports of aircraft in flight, and 400mm is even better. Fast lenses are not really necessary, as the best images are created in bright, sunny conditions, so you will be shooting at around f8 or smaller. You are also trying to get the sharpest image possible, so a monopod is almost essential, further reducing the need for a fast lens. For aircraft that are parked, any lens will do the job, assuming of course you can get close enough, sometimes not possible at major airports. Stationary aircraft lend themselves to dynamic images with wide angle lenses, as the depth of field is quiet large, and you can get some dramatic images by moving in close, using a small aperture and concentrating on small areas like the propellers, wings, etc.

Straight portrait style shots can be obtained with a lens or lens setting of around 50mm if you can get close enough. A 35mm or wider will generate too much distortion for an accurate rendition of the aircraft. On any day though at Sydney there are always a group of enthusiasts in the area just below the control tower, and it is easy with a moderate telephoto to get good side-on shots of the aircraft as they taxi out for take-off.

Creating That Great Image
Images that fill the frame generally work best, creating a dynamic image. However, if you like to leave some space around the main subject, leave some space in front of the aircraft so it looks as if it is moving into the frame, not out of it. Of course with a fast moving aircraft, this can be problematic at times. Also, having space on the left side of the frame does not look as good as having space on the right of the frame, in cultures that read from left to right.

Stationary aircraft at airports can be difficult to get images without ground clutter, such as stairways, ground maintenance carts and so on. As previously mentioned, the aircraft should be well lit, with light coming from behind you or behind and to left or right. White painted aircraft can result in images that lose detail in that area, so light coming from an angle of about 30-45û is best here, sometimes depending on the camera that large white area can result in an underexposed image, so you need to open up by about 2 stops.

Airshows
Finally, a brief word about airshows. Although few and far between in Australia these days, they create a great opportunity to create images that might not be possible otherwise, especially of military and rare aircraft. If you can get to them early before most of the crowds arrive, or stay late after they have mostly gone, you have the advantage of being able to move about more easily and being able to get good close up images.

Being an aircraft nut, I have a lot of fun creating dynamic aviation images. I have not as yet done any air - air stuff, but one day, maybe. I hope this article will inspire you to combine two great pastimes, see at an airport somewhere in the near future.